Heirloom Diamonds & Sapphire Bombé Ring
My grandmother gave me a three diamond ring very similar to this style. It was worn and needed some love. I took out the diamonds and designed a ring that reminded me of my grandmother. She was always the best dressed, most elegant, fiery bombshell that walked into the room. What could I make to encapsulate this woman who lit up every room with her presence?
Enter the Bombé ring. Bombé is french for "domed". Originally, it was created using Platinum in the Edwardian period (1901-1915). Platinum, the newest metal at the time, could be shaped into many different designs due to it's strength. The styles forward bulge was often decorated with filigree, floral motifs, and of course gemstones.
Since the styles introduction its had various iterations, from the Prohibition era to Art Deco. Leading jewelry houses Cartier, Bulgari and Tiffany & Co. started using the design with their signature styles and Hollywood glamour added to it's popularity.
My grandmothers heyday was the 1940's-1970's. In that time cocktail rings we're very fashionable from costume jewelry to fine jewelry, every woman going to social events had a cocktail ring. The Bombé rings statement-making shape became very popular during the 50's, 60's, and 70's. Platinum was switched out for the rich tones of yellow gold, and gemstones and enamel were more prominent than just metal for the added prestige. The star-bright-cut setting seen here also became popular during this time, and since my grandmother was always the star of every party it seemed only fitting to use this setting in a ring that would represent her.
Evelyn has a purple sapphire ring, that she loves, and one of the reasons she loves it, is because she didn't realize that sapphires come in colors other than blue. Sapphires are from the species Corundum (Ruby also) and are the only mineral that comes in just about every color. For this ring I chose sapphires in purple and pink hues that reminded me of the setting sun when the colors streak the sky and it's my grandmothers favorite time-cocktail hour. I made this ring in 14k yellow gold but I think it would be equally striking in a richer 18k yellow, depending on the skin tone of the wearer. My grandmother has pale skin and 14k is a nicer compliment to her coloring.
Bombé rings are big, and it's important that when making a large ring you also make a ring that is comfortable, which means you need to take into consideration the weight. A ring that was weighted heavily in the front would turn on your finger. By hollowing out the underside we are able to take out weight, and reduce the amount of gold which helps in reducing price and increasing comfort. The tapered backside makes opening and closing your hand much more pleasant when wearing a larger ring, adding a diamond on the back is a fun way for some hidden bling.
I approach every heirloom redesign in this same manner. Who were they to you? What do they represent in your life? How do you remember them? How can we honor their memory? What was important to them? Jewelry is a vessel for memories. The tangible manifestation of the intangible. To design something with intention, with love, and with great respect is to turn an object into a treasure.